Yet, for as grateful as so many of us are for the mutually rewarding relationship we have with our dogs, there are many who suffer from an extreme fear of dogs, which is called cynophobia and is often caused by a traumatic encounter with a dog or because of a lack of early, positive exposure to them. For those suffering from cynophobia, the mere sight of a dog at a distance, or even the prospect of it, can cause serious distress. This kind of fear can be powerful and have an intensely negative effect on a person’s overall quality of life for the simple fact that there are so many dogs out there and therefore so many opportunities for encounters with them.

Phobias can be maintained and escalate by the internal triggers a person falls back on, such as believing the encounter will result in an attack and repeating to oneself how terrifying the situation may be. Essentially, practicing the fear response pattern creates a stronger, more deeply ingrained habit with each repetition. This sort of conditioning, even if made inadvertently, creates a deeply ingrained pattern of emotion and response. The response to this pattern may escalate and evolve into shaking, crying and running away.

Unfortunately, this response may actually encourage a dog to investigate and even chase the person. Which, of course, will further cement and probably escalate the phobia. Running away from a dog may trigger the dog’s predatory response. So, as difficult as it may be, it is usually advisable to try to remain still, to avoid eye contact, and then to move slowly away.

When the team and I on Animal Planet’s Underdog to Wonderdog was contacted by Kathy who was suffering from cynophobia, we knew we had a daunting challenge. But, it sounded like one of the most important ingredients for the recipe for success was on our side. Kathy was truly committed to facing and overcoming her phobia.

Kathy’s mission to overcome her fear was driven by a number of factors; To relieve the stress it was causing herinternally, but also because she felt that her fear was having a negative impact on her family. Her husband and children do not suffer from a fear of dogs. In fact, all three of them desperately wanted a dog as part of their family. For years, Kathy had been trying to hide her fear from her children by telling them she was allergic to dogs. But, as her children were maturing, Kathy realized the truth was coming to the surface. Her children started realizing that there mother was terrified when she saw a dog and Kathy was regretting not telling them the full truth. She was dedicated to overcoming this problem for herself and her family.

We started by taking some time to assess how severe Kathy’s fear was. A walk in the park where we passed dogs lying quietly by their people and walking politely on leash at a distance caused Kathy to grab onto my arm for security. It was heartbreaking to see her shake and well up with tears knowing that this was something she experienced on a regular basis. We passed a dog run, and took a moment to watch the dogs play in the safely fenced in area. For dog lovers, most of the normal and natural behavior of dogs is part of why we hold them so dear. But, for others, like Kathy, the natural behavior of dogs was overwhelmingly frightenting. Kathy panicked when the dogs ran around romping and playing with each other. When one barked to solicit play from another, it was clear it was time for us to head back to headquarters at

During our walk, Kathy had mentioned to me that one type of dog she thought she wouldn’t be afraid of was a tiny puppy. So, I decided to arrange some time for Kathy to bond with a little pup as a starting point for our work together. I introduced her to a 6 week-old puppy of about 3 pounds. When I walked into the lounge area Kathy seemed very tense. So, I sat on the couch and allowed her to take her time to approach. Even after seeing how severe her fear was on our walk, I was a little surprised to see her reaction to this sleepy, tiny canine whom she had told me she thought she would feel comfortable with. Kathy not only didn’t want to touch the pup, nor sit near him, she ran out of the room crying. I was heartbroken for Kathy seeing how difficult facing this fear was for her and for realizing how tough the road ahead would be as we worked together to overcome it.

Kathy and I chatted for a bit. In addition to being afraid, she was ashamed of her reaction. I assured her that she had nothing to be embarrassed about. In fact, quite the opposite. She should be proud of herself for what she was trying to do. We all have fears, but not all of us choose to take steps to overcome those which have a negative impact on our lives. Kathy mustered the courage to come back into the lounge and after talking about the age of the pup and the fact that he was so young that in reality it was impossible for him to pose any physical threat to anyone, Kathy reached out to tentatively touch him. It was the frist time she had ever touched a puppy.

This was a wonderful first step for Kathy. But, after our day together I got the team together to discuss the possibility of enlisting the help of a therapist to work with Kathy as well. In our first meeting with her she explained to Kathy how common phobias are, especially cynophobia. She said that in addition to repetitive exposure to friendly, well-mannered dogs, Kathy should choose a mantra to focus on during these encounters. This way, she could focus on what she would hopefully feel automatically in the future (that she is safe) when encountering dogs rather than practicing her internal monologue about how scared she was and how potentially dangerous the situation was. She also suggested some ways for Kathy to calm herself physcally. Deep breathing and relaxing her shoulders were part of the plan. This would hopefully help to relieve Kathy’s sense of tightness in her chest, her heart pounding and her shaking.

Kathy and I continued to work on exposure to other dogs and on her developing a better understanding of general dog body language and behavior. I felt that this would help to relieve her feeling that dogs were so foreign to her and that everything they do (even a soft tail wag) is a potential threat. Part of this process involved a visit to a dog training school with my dog Nora. It was amazing enough that Kathy was able to enter the facility. Especially after she saw there were a number of dogs inside when we arrived. She was so focused on keeping her eye on those dogs, that she seemed to barely recognize that she was standing right next to my dog. It was the closest encounter she had with an adult dog since we started working together. When Kathy felt ready, we stepped into the enclosed training area. We talked through her mantra, did some deep breathing exercises and then I asked Kathy if she could hold Nora’s leash. I thought this would be a good moment to hand over the reins to her because she seemed so focused on her mission to remain calm. And it worked! Kathy not only held Nora’s leash, but progressed to participating with her in the class.

After this wonderful day together, we all felt much more confident that Kathy would be able to overcome her fear and know the joy of having a dog as part of her family. So, we thought it was time for her to meet her new dog Bo who we had been working with to teach him to respond promptly when asked to sit. We thought this simple behavior would be a wonderful starting point for Kathy to feel confident that she could effectively communicate with Bo. It was a wonderful moment seeing Kathy’s face as she entered the room and saw Bo for the first time. She seemed calm and proud that this little guy was her family’s new dog. Kathy touched Bo, hugged him, asked him to sit and with the help of Ali McLennan even learned some valuable tips for grooming Bo in the future.

One of our next steps with Kathy was a big one…Ali and I took her and Bo to a pet parade where she would walk Bo herself and be exposed to other dogs. It was a beautiful day on the pier, with loads of dogs in adorable outfits. Kathy was all smiles as she walked Bo down the red carpet as they competed for ‘Best in Show’ at the event. They didn’t win the official prize, but the three of us knew that Kathy had won something much more valuable.

When we brought Bo to live with his new family, we all felt it would be the icing on the cake if Kathy was the one to introduce him to her family. The joy and surprise on their faces to see their new, handsome pup escorted by his new Mom as he walked up the drive to his new home was an amazing reward for us all. Most especially Kathy.

Some breeds are particularly prone to obesity. These include Labrador Retrievers, Beagles, Pugs, Cocker Spaniels, Shih Tzus and Dachshunds. Unfortunately, some of these breeds are already susceptible to serious health problems such as hip displaysia, back problems, breathing and heart problems, so you need to be especially carefully to keep them fit and trim.

Overweight pets are more prone to injury, have more stress on their heart and other vital organs, can suffer more severely from osteoarthritis, have respiratory issues, and are at a greater risk for diabetes.

It’s important to consult with your Veterinarian to determine if your pet is at a good weight. As with people, every pet will carry their weight differently depending on their structure. But, as a general rule, the ideal condition is that in which you can feel your pet’s ribs by gently rubbing on their sides and they should have at least a minor tuck up in their waste (the belly area between their ribcage and rear).

In order to control your pet’s weight it’s important to realize that food is not a substitute for love and attention. Being strict about helping your pet achieve an ideal weight is one of the kindest things you can do for them. Overindulging your pets to the point that they become unhealthy is actually killing with kindness. To achieve and maintain your pet’s ideal weight your veterinarian will help you make a plan which may include some or all of the following:

Gradually cut back on the amount of food you give your pet and consider offering healthy snack alternatives such as apple slices, green beans, carrots and other low-calorie vegetables. If you offer a special treat, like some healthy leftovers from your dinner, then cut back on his/her normal meal.

Provide adequate exercise every day such as walks, play and training sessions. You can even encourage your pet to exercise when you aren’t home by getting rid of their food bowls and feeding them from food stuffable toys which they have to push about to make release the food. However, diving into a vigorous exercise program can cause injuries and stress so start slowly and visit your veterinarian before you begin. As with people, the safest way for your pet to lose weight is to do so slowly under the care of a medical professional.

Consult your veterinarian about possibly using a diet food. If your pet is severely overweight your Veterinarian may prescribe a diet which is more severely calorie restricted and is meant for short term use to aid in losing weight, not as a long term diet. Some contain a lot of fiber to help your pet feel full. This should only be used when supervised by your veterinarian. In addition, there is a relatively new drug on the market called Slentrol which works in two ways, by sending a message to the brain to say I’m full and locally in the intestines by blocking the fat from being absorbed. However as soon as you stop the drug those benefits go away. So, it can be used for targeted weight loss, but only under the supervision of your veterinarian and in conjunction with a weight loss plan which includes an overall healthier lifestyle for your pet.

This is a very good thing and due in great part to the efforts of people like Dr. Ian Dunbar and Dr. R.K. Anderson who have focused much effort on helping people understand the importance of early, preventative teaching to best ensure a long and happy life for a dog in one loving home (as opposed to a dog being surrendered to a shelter due to easily preventable behavior issues).

Raising a puppy can be a truly wonderful experience filled with all the fun one could expect from a baby animal who is programmed to be an investigative, playful, social creature. However, most puppy parents will attest to the fact that for all the joys of being there for the first few months of your pup’s life, there are also some moments of serious frustration (and lack of sleep). For some more than others.

I got a call today from a very nice fellow who recently adopted a 10 week-old pup. We had already had one session together where we discussed the basics of being a good doggie time manager so as to set his little pup up for success in regards to housetraining, learning to spend time alone, and preventing destructive chewing. On leash supervision, feeding meals in the crate and using it for very short periods of rest, a long term confinement area, and a food, water and potty schedule were all part of the plan we set together. As with many puppy parents, he was receptive to some suggestions, and not so much to others. But, I was confident that in the coming weeks he would start to see how his job was to help his puppy learn to be the dog he wanted her to be and the easiest way to do that is with the aid of management tools to set her up for success.

One of the many great things about teaching people to teach their dogs is seeing the pride and enthusiasm in their eyes when they bring their pup in for the first lesson. One of the tough parts of this profession is watching people go through the very typical cycle of puppy parenting, the next stage of which has a lot to do with being frustrated when a pup makes housetraining mistakes, chews inappropriate items, and barks and whines at all hours of the day and night. While even the best doggie time management won’t prevent mistakes 100% of the time, it will certainly help keep things under control and keep their pup on the path to ultimate success.

Likewise, a lack of this management is surely going to put a strain on the canine/human relationship. Puppy parents play a huge part in their dog’s lifelong behavior. In addition, each dog is an individual whose genetics also play a part in their behavior. But, I always try to encourage people to go into raising a pup under the assumption that their pup may suffer from any number of behavior issues. It is better to err on the side of caution, to do everything you can to prevent potential issues, rather than to have a wait and see attitude.

From what this puppy parent told me on our call today, it seemed he had been giving his pup opportunities to make mistakes and thereby inadvertantly opportunites to practice behaviors he didn’t like. He explained that the reason for this was that for the first week he had her, she seemed to have a very mellow personailty. She didn’t make any mistakes in the house for the first few days, and spent a good bit of her time sleeping happily. However, after the first week, he said it seemed she had loads more energy, was much pushier and investigative and less tolerant of being left alone. I suspected he had fallen prey to the Puppy Honeymoon Period!

Many dogs are somewhat inhibited when they first come to their new home. But, once they start to feel more comfortable, their puppy parents find themselves saying “She never did that before!” many times throughout the day. There is a first time for everything, and most young pups start displaying behaviors that may seem new, but are usually just more exaggerated and frequent after the first week or two in their home, once they feel more comfortable and come out of their shell.

He seemed very understanding of this, and was very honest about the effect this stage was having on him. He was tired from having slept very little the last few nights, upset at having to clean up housetraining mistakes, and worried that his pup had separation issues. I focused on helping him to see the light at the end of the tunnel. In this case, that his staying, calm, cool and collected, and focusing on helping to set his pup up for success using the tools we had discussed would in fact result in a dog who would develop housetraining skills, a great chew toy habit and the ability to rest calmly when left alone.

When people think of getting a pup, it is hard not to focus solely on the cuteness factor, and the unconditional love. But, it also important to know that it can be a challenging endeavor. As with any relationship, there are ups and downs. I am confident that this puppy parent will be successful and rewarded with a wonderful canine companion, because he seems committed to his pup and to seeking out assistance. But, for many puppy parents going through this sort of frustration stage with a puppy it can be hard not to feel that you are failing, or that something is wrong with your pup. It would be wonderful if there were a place where puppy parents could go to share these sorts of stories, a support group of sorts. Actually, there is a place like this, and it’s called Puppy Class!

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A similar, albeit usually much shorter, honeymoon period is often experienced by new pet parents. Although, unlike people in a new relationship, I don’t think the dog or puppy is on it’s best behavior with the understanding that they are about to start a new, hopefully long term relationship. Instead, many dogs are in a state of severe adjustment to what is a whole new world. A new environment, sights, sounds, people and possibly other animals can result in a dog sort of shutting down a bit (or a lot!) as they absorb all of this new information and try to figure out their place in the world. This is analagous to a person being plopped down in a new country. It would seem understandable that they might take a few days or weeks to quietly observe and figure things out.

Many people end up calling a dog trainer for help only after weeks or months have passed with their new dog in their home. At first they put off calling because there doesn’t seem to be a need. Their new dog is fairly calm, passive, and quiet. But, as the dog becomes adjusted and more comfortable their true personality shines through. With it often comes a list of what, to their new family anyway, seem to be new behaviors (this could be excessive barking, inappropriate chewing, growling when food or toys are taken away).

The behaviors aren’t really new to the dog, they are just new to the dog in it’s new home. When these behaviors start to show themselves, people are often caught off guard. As a result, they may at first assume that these things are just one or two time mistakes and the dog will go back to his or her ‘normal’ behavior soon without intervention on their part.

But, as the dog begins to engage in what their new family considers to be inappropriate behaviors on a more frequent basis, frustration rears it’s ugly head. The dog is surely frustrated, since he or she clearly doesn’t understand what is expected and is probably getting reprimanded, and the dog’s new family is frustrated as they may not be equipped to manage the situation and help their dog learn what is expected.

In a perfect world, everyone who is about to bring a dog into their family would read one or two great, positive training books prior to their dogs arrival. Options are my Barron’s Bible of Dog Training or Dog-Friendly Dog Training, and just about every book by Dr. Ian Dunbar, Teoti Anderson, and Karen Pryor. They would also find a great trainer to work with in person.

If they do luck out and find the dog they have adopted is not in need of intense training, a lesson or group class will still be beneficial. For most people, having an expert on hand just prior to or immediately following their new dog’s arrival home is a superb way to help prevent or quickly manage and control any potential problems. Doing so means the real honeymoon period, that is a lifelong relationship with a dog who is as calm, confident, happy and well-mannered as possible (due to being taught what is expected rather than being allowed to develop inappropriate habits) can begin asap.

The family purchased the pup from a pet store in NYC. They admitted they knew it was not a good idea to buy a dog from a pet store. But, like so many people do, they entered the store after seeing her curled in the back of the window area and felt they needed to rescue her. The store told them that she had been there a month, and that before that she came from a reputable breeder and lived in the persons home. But, as I explained to the family, the dog’s behavior and logic would suggest otherwise.

First and foremost, a reputable breeder would want to know who their pups are going to live with. They would want to talk to the people and feel confident it was a good match. They also want to keep some track of the dogs they choose to bring into this world, if only to become aware of any potential genetic health issues in their breeding lines. Selling a dog to a pet store would make these things unlikely to happen.

Also, a person who chooses to breed purebred dogs responsibly would certainly understand a thing or two about early socialization, handling and gentling. The experiences in the first 22 weeks of a pup’s life play a dramatic role in their behavior and temperament throughout the rest of their life. In this pup’s case, odds are she received very little handling and socialization in the place where she was born. From there she was shipped on a truck from Missouri to a pet store in New York City and put into a display cage where she was forced to eat, sleep, drink, urinate and defecate all in the same area. This does not bode well for maintaining a dog’s natural sense of cleanliness, for ease of future house training, nor for a dog’s potential to reach full socialization success.

We spent over an hour discussing ways we would work together to help this pup overcome the mistreatment she seems to have endured in the first months of her life. This family seems wonderfully committed to this little pup and we came up with a detailed plan for housetraining and lots of gradual exposure to people and new environments.

In all likelihood, this pup’s mother and father are living in very small cages in a puppy mill and being used to breed again and again until they can no longer do so. At this point, most puppy mill breeding dogs are either killed, abandoned or surrendered to a local shelter. One of the easiest ways to help stop the suffering of dogs like this is to refuse to purchase the puppies that come out of these mills. If there is no longer a demand for these dogs, the puppy mills will go out of business and countless dogs will be saved from suffering a cruel life.

I told the family about Benji, one of the dogs we worked with on Animal Planet’s Underdog to Wonderdog. He had been a breeding dog in a puppy mill who was abandoned under a bridge along with other dogs from a puppy mill once they were no longer considered useful as breeders. Benji found a wonderful family, as did this little Havanese pup. But, a huge percentage of puppy mill dogs are not so lucky. In addition to not purchasing dogs from pet stores, you can help stop puppy mills by not purchasing any products from establishments that sell puppies and by helping to spread the word about why puppy mills need to be completely abolished.

Throughout the two days of shooting we had a stream of dogs coming and going, each one as deliciously cute as the previous and next. By midway through the first day, I expressed my concern about how they could possibly choose amongst them.

My friend explained that the company had a specific vision for what they were looking for and had actually spent many months making lists of their criteria for the best spokesdog partner for the brand. Taking photos of numerous dogs allowed them to ‘test-drive’ many options in order to make their final choice.

Being that I was helping to handle the dogs on set, I had an opportunity to get to know each of them and their families a bit, and I couldn’t help but to express my concern about the ones who weren’t going to be chosen. As far as I could see, each was a dog that anyone would be proud to have as a representative. My friend smiled and reminded me of how often she had heard me tell people to carefully choose a dog for their family that had the best potential to be a great match.

It was clear that much effort was being put into the choice of a dog spokesmodel and it was considered of extreme importance to all involved. My friend was right that one could only hope that prospective puppy parents would proceed with the choice of a puppy in a similar and even more selective manner. Unfortunately, people tend to spend far more time and effort researching and test-driving cars (or in this case spokesdogs) to find the right one than they do when choosing a canine companion. With that said, there is no doubt that the choice of a family companion dog is deserving of equal or greater consideration than the choice of a spokesdog or car. After all, a dog will be part of your family and live in your home for many years to come.

Thinking about a new puppy? Start with the ABC’s:
Ask for Assistance: The pet food company had chosen my friend for her superb photography skills, but also as an expert who could assist them in making their final spokesdog choice. Likewise, it is advisable for families to enlist the support of a trainer or shelter staff to help them choose the companion dog that is best suited to their family and vice versa. With hundreds of dogs to choose from, an expert can help you narrow down your choice.

Be Realistic: Just as there are no perfect people or families, consider that there are no breeds or mixes that are perfect. The goal is not to find the ‘perfect’ dog, but rather to narrow your search to a type of dog that has the general attributes that are most likely to fit with your lifestyle. Also, remember that each pup is an individual and while a general assessment of a pup’s potential future activity level, behavioral tendencies, and the like can be made, it is ultimately your responsibility to guide your pup towards becoming the mannerly, well-socialized adult dog you hope for. That will require early and ongoing management, supervision and training, and a whole lot of love.

Create a wish List: Start with a detailed list outlining your weekly schedule, the general time and monetary commitment you can make, and the activities you enjoy (and hope for your dog to be a part of). This will give you a good starting point in regards to what sort of dog may be most suitable for your family.

Bringing home a puppy is a lifetime commitment that comes with many responsibilities to consider including the time and monetary expense.

Consider Veterinary Expenses: In an ideal world, a puppy would require veterinary visits for only the most routine vaccinations and checkups. Unfortunately, some dogs tend to be more prone to health issues. If you are considering a purebred dog, be sure to carefully research breed specific health concerns such as joint, heart, eye, skin, and breathing issues.

A client of mine welcomed a beautiful, wrinkly English Bulldog pup into her family with all of the high hopes one would expect from a new puppy parent. Unfortunately, within the first six months she had to make upwards of twenty visits to the veterinary and to veterinary specialists as the pup developed severe skin and breathing issues.

While she adores her dog and is committed to providing all the care he needs, she says that she might have chosen differently had she known that the breed tends to suffer from these issues more so than many others. While a dog of any breed or mix may someday require extensive veterinary treatment (which you should be prepared to provide), some types of dogs have the odds against them in regards to long-term health issues.

Food Fees: Providing a dog with a high quality diet is one of the fundamental responsibilities in regards to their overall well being. The difference in cost for a medium versus large sized dog is probably not vast. But, the cost of feeding a 5-pound dog versus a 120-pound dog surely is. Head to your local pet store and make a calculation of what a monthly supply of food will be for the size of dog you are considering and be sure you can comfortably budget for this for the next 15 years.

Grooming : For years I shared my life with Gordon Setters. I really enjoyed the time spent grooming them and was proud when people would comment on their beautiful, flowing black and tan coats. But, not everyone is prepared to commit the time for at home grooming or the expense of hiring a professional groomer to maintain a coat like this. Grooming is an essential part of helping to maintain any dog’s overall well-being, but some require a much more diligent commitment. So, be sure you choose a dog whose grooming requirements you can meet.

Mixed Breed or Purebred?: I was quite pleased to find that all but one of the dogs that had been called in to audition as a spokesdog was a mixed breed. While I adore dogs of all shapes and sizes, and have a particular passion for understanding the history of breeds, I am thrilled when people choose the adoption option. I have found that many people are gravely disappointed when they choose a purebred dog they saw in a movie, or commercial and it doesn’t live up to the idealized image presented in the media or in the breed standard. After all, few Collies are as apt to consistently save a little boy’s life as Lassie and few German Shepherd Dogs are as heroic as Rin Tin Tin.

While there is certainly a predictability factor to choosing a purebred, it has most to do with looks. In regards to temperament and behavior, some breed generalizations ring true (after all, we developed breeds to highlight specific behaviors).

Unfortunately, many of these generalizations result in people choosing a dog in the hopes that it will live up to this idealized reputation with little or no guidance from them. In reality, even those breeds that are believed to be great with kids require the guidance of a loving family to help them reach their full potential.

Furthermore, within a breed, and even a litter, there will be a wide range of personalities. Much like how two children from the same family will have two unique personalities. So, if you choose a particular breed, be sure to spend plenty of time getting to know the adult dogs in the breeder’s line and the pups in the litter you are choosing from.

There is no such thing as a push button or ready-made family dog. Once you have chosen a dog that has the general characteristics you believe are best suited to your family, it is your responsibility to help guide the pup towards its full potential. That means providing them with the education they need to become a great canine companion and of course…a whole lifetime of love!

Setting aside the fact that as many brief (3-5 minute) training sessions indoors throughout the week as possible will bode well for your dog and you becoming pleasant walking partners for many years to come. To begin, have your dog on leash and take just one or two steps before you stop and wait for your dog to sit. Stay calm and quiet so your dog has the best chance to think about the situation and offer a sit in the hopes it is what you are looking for when you stop. Use a marker (the word ‘yes’ or a clicker will do) to specifically pinpoint for your dog that sitting when you stop is what will earn the reward of a tiny treat (or a piece of the dog’s normal meal) and the continuation of the walk for another step or two by offering one or more of these rewards right after the marker sound. Gradually increasing the steps in between stops and making changes of pace and direction will further enhance your dog’s desire to engage in the on leash training game of walking nicely with you.

During the time you are helping your dog develop a foundation of understanding of what it means to walk next to you on a slack leash and sit when you stop, consider using a training tool that offers what is the equivalent of power steering in a car. Front clip harnesses have risen in popularity over the last few years as people have become aware of their usefulness as a gentle training aid.

With front attachment harnesses such as the Easy Walk and the Sense-Ation brands the leash attaches to the clip which sits in the middle of the harness low on the dog’s chest. Having the leash attached here as oppossed to the part of the harness that sits in the middle of the dog’s back (as on a traditional harness) can make a dramatic difference in regards to the dog’s ability and reflexive response to pull. Traditional, back clip harnesses can actually encourage a dog to pull using the opposition reflex. Opposition reflex is the dog’s natural inclination to push or pull against pressure. That’s why if you try to pull a pup towards you, they are likely to lean back, and if you try to push a dog into a down they are likely to brace themselves and push up against the pressure. This is a natural reflex. In many cases, the same holds true when using a traditional harness.

Allowing the dog to pull forward (for which the traditional harness is designed to do superbly well) only acts to encourage the dog’s reflex to pull against the pressure. That is why a variation of these types of traditional harnesses is used with sled dogs, to make it easier for and to encurage them to pull. Front attachment collars do not encourage this opposition reflex in the same way. As the front strap sits low across the dog’s chest, they also are not as likely to cause choking, coughing or other discomfort.

While front attachment and traditional harnesses may look quite similar as they hang on the rack at your local pet store, they are unique in regards to their efficacy as gentle training aids. Front attachment dog harnesses can be a wonderful part of your trainer’s toolbox to help your dog become a calmer, more connected walking partner.

Oh Martin, you are so polite. If I was the voice in my car I might be tempted to say “You missed the turn! Turn around, go back and follow my instructions.” Luckily, I have far more skill and patience when teaching dogs and their people than when trying to navigate somewhere in my car.

Martin and I have had a generally good relationship. Although, not so much when I am lost and feel he isn’t doing his part to get me on the right track. In the last year or so, I have started to feel that after five years together, Martin and I might be getting on each other’s nerves. As a result, I suspect he occasionally chooses to purposefully provide me with inaccurate directions or at least a route that is far longer than necessary. But, if we were in couples therapy I suspect the counselor would point out that in the end, Martin always gets me where I want to go. Even if it takes a bit longer than I had hoped.

For example, I was recently headed to upstate New York to visit a friend. They had given me directions to their house, but I figured it would be safer for me to let Martin know where we needed to go and let him talk me through it rather than rely on having to look down at a piece of paper while trying to focus on the road. My friend told me the trip would take no more than an hour and a half. Martin sent me on a path that took just over two. Maybe he wanted to see some of the prettier side roads? I arrived at my friend’s house in a huff and announced that I would be calling the dealer to find out if I could replace Martin with a new GPS system. I had visions of Daniel Craig’s voice leading me on the fastest route to wherever I wanted to go.

My friend pointed out that I was being a wee bit impractical. Not only would a new GPS system probably cost far more than it was worth, but it is highly unlikely that ‘Bond, James Bond’ is looking for side jobs as the voice of a GPS system. She also suggested that I might try to follow my own advice. I was reluctant to offer any gesture that she might interpret as encouragement to elaborate. So, I pointed out how beautiful her house was looking now that all the trees and pretty flowers were blooming. My distraction ploy didn’t work. After a brief pause, she said “Didn’t we just chat yesterday about how people need to be willing to slow down and take their time when trying to become a professional dog trainer? Maybe you should do the same when trying to get somewhere?” All the greenery, the birds chirping, and the presence of a good friend had started to put me in a positive, reflective mood. Maybe she was on to something?

Of the many emails my dog training school receives each week, at least five to ten are from people asking for advice on how to become a professional dog trainer. Some are very specific, such as “I want to be a dog trainer on TV. Can you tell me how to do this?” Others are more general, such as “I have always loved dogs and would love to spend my time with them rather than behind a desk. Can you tell me what my options are?”

Many of these inquiries include a question about possible attendance at a school for trainers. While I am sure there are plenty of people who have benefited greatly from this, I do not generally encourage people to do so if they are expecting to leave the school ready to start their career by offering private lessons or group classes. Six to eight weeks of schooling, whether in person or especially if on-line, is, in my humble opinion, not an ideal option. Just as I wouldn’t expect to acquire the necessary skills and experience to become a piano teacher, high school math teacher, or counselor by attending a course of this type, neither is it likely that a person hoping to help others learn to teach their dogs will acquire the necessary skill in this time frame. While some aspects of training dogs does not require an enormous amount of experience (for example, teaching a puppy to sit), the reality is that most pet parents expect a trainer to be equipped to assist them with a myriad of issues. Many of which are best resolved by someone who has dealt with the issue previously and successfully and has a full trainer’s toolbox (filled with loads of experience) with which to do so. A 6-8 week training course might be a start for one’s education, but enrollment should probably not be based on a hope to finish the program ready to start a career without much further study.

If you do choose a program such as this as a foundation for the beginning of your education, be sure to carefully research the program prior to enrolling. Make sure the school is devoted to humane methods and look for a program that offers coursework that includes (but, is not limited to the following); Learning Theory (classical and operant conditioning, shaping, desensitization and sensitization, positive and negative reinforcement, positive and negative punishment, motivations, generalization, and a history of training; Animal Behavior (development, genetic influences, body language, social and hormonal influences); Teaching Skills (screening, counseling and motivating clients, and designing courses and materials). While there are no formal requirements for dog trainers, if you are interested in certification consider contacting the Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers (www.CCPDT.org).

Working with dogs and their people has a very long list of upsides. The most obvious being that you get to meet and interact with loads of dogs (I am still thinking about the little Bullmastiff pup named Shelby I met last week. So cute!). Another list topper is the feeling you get when you have a client who goes from being frustrated with and even angry at their dog to beaming prooudly as they show off all the new skills you helped them teach their canine buddy. Sometimes all it takes is helping to teach their dog to offer an automatic sit to greet people so that he doesn’t jump on visitors. Sometimes it is more challenging, such as helping someone teach their dog to be able ot rest calmly and quietly when left alone so the angry letters from neighbors and the landlord cease, or helping someone to better manage a dog with aggression issues. But, in every case the goal is the same; Helping people help their dogs to live a better quality of life filled with much happiness. It’s no surprise we get so many email inquiries from people about how to become a dog trainer. Who wouldn’t want a career helping dogs to be happier?

As wonderful as so many things about being a dog trainer are, before you decide to quit your current profession is is important to carefully consider some of the realities of a career as a professional dog trainer. Many people tell me they want to be a trainer because they don’t like people so much and would rather spend their time with dogs. But, when a dog walks into a group class or a private lesson, there is usually a person or two at the other end of the leash. At a bare minimum, 50% of a dog trainer’s interactions are going to be with people. Actually, more likely 80-90% of their time is spent teaching people. So, if you are interested in a career as a dog trainer in part as a way of avoiding people, I would suggest you instead consider a position as a night watchperson or a lighthouse keeper. To be a dog trainer you have to enjoy interacting with people on a pretty consistent basis. You are essentially coaching people to guide their dogs towards better behavior.

And I am here to tell you, it is generally a lot of fun. But, when people ask me “What’s the most difficult type of animal you have worked with?” My answer is usually something like this: “Out of all the many different types of dogs, cats and other animals I have worked with, the most difficult is by far…the human animal!” So, if you enjoy people and all the challenges that working with them to accomplish a goal that they may at times feel is frustratingly out of their reach, then read on.

Another reality of becoming a dog trainer is the typical range of monetary compensation that you can expect. Most dog trainers, even the best, don’t live in fancy apartments or houses and many have a full-time job outside of their animal related career. Dog training is something they make time for during evenings and weekends. This allows them to maintain a stable income and in some cases health benefits (something many full-time dog trainers do not have). Of course, this means they work many hours a week, juggling two professions. Most aspire for training to eventually be their sole, full-time career. But, for most, it takes many years to build a reputation and practice that can sustain them. I spent two years apprenticing without pay and another two after that building my own practice while working numerous other jobs.

Some of the people who have written to me over the years have become part of my training team at my school in New York City. For them and myself, the path of our careers has been a long one that includes years spent apprenticing, reading, attending seminars and workshops and time spent hoping for the day when our professional life could be all dogs and their people, all the time. To follow are some of the steps we took to get here:

Join as many group classes as you can afford with as many instructors as possible. This way you get a sense of various teaching styles. Most importantly, it provides an opportunity to develop great hands on skills with your own dog.

Get your hands on as many books about training and animal behavior as you can. One of the first books I read on the topic, and the one that I credit with most inspiring me to teach dogs and their people as a profession, is Karen Pryor’s Don’t Shoot the Dog. Other authors I recommend are: Dr. Ian Dunbar, Jean Donaldson, Susan Garrett, Ken Ramirez, Kathy Sdao, Teoti Anderson, Gwen Bailey, Pam Dennison, and of course, my own books including Dog-Friendly Dog Training and Train Your Dog the Lazy Way.

Attend Seminars and Workshops: There are loads of one day, weekend, and week long seminars offered throughout the year. Many of these can be found by going to: www.APDT.com, www.DogSeminarsDirectory.com, www.DogsofCourse.com, and www.PuppyWorks.com. Some of my best memories from the beginning of my career are the times spent at these sorts of events. In particular, I remember a John Rogerson seminar in California where the first day of the four day workshop was spent with him splitting us into groups and giving us problems to solve and tasks to accomplish. I suspect we would have learned a lot is we had been given the same challenges to do on our own. But, we learned a lot more than I had expected about group dynamics (great for people interested in teaching group classes) and how our behavior affects others. And to think it is all on tape somewhere.

Volunteering at a local shelter or rescue group is a great way to be around dogs of a variety of sizes, ages, and temperaments. But, a word of caution: Do not apply to volunteer with the sole intent of adding to your experience. This is an endeavor that requires a serious commitment of time and energy for the main purpose of helping these groups care for the animals. Some, or much, of what you may be asked to do may be removed from being hands on with the animals (such as cleaning, envelope stuffing, assisting at adoption events, and answering phones). Regardless, it is a good thing to do all around.

Join the APDT: Become a member and attend the Association of Pet Dog Trainers annual conference as there is no better place to meet and learn from so many of the foremost experts on animal behavior at one time. I attended the very first of these conferences many years ago and still rely on what I learned there and at subsequent conferences as a foundation for my approach to teaching. As a side benefit, you are sure to meet people who are similarly passionate about dogs and who may become lifelong friends and a source of ongoing support as you pursue your career.

Foster: If you have the time, space and adequate dog experience, consider working with a local shelter or rescue group as a foster parent. You will be helping them to save the lives of more animals, and at the same time learning from each dog you care for.

Apprentice: When I got my first dog as an adult I signed up for a puppy class before I brought him home. I can’t remember what made me do something so wise, but it was one of the best decisions I have made. It resulted in me having a wonderful relationship with a mannerly, well-socialized dog, who became the love of my life. It also brouhgt me an invitation to apprentice at the school. I suspect my obsessive completion of the weekly homework they handed out and my wide-eyed attention to every word they said in class might have given them the impression that I was very committed to learning about their profession. I apprenticed at the school for almost two years before they permitted me to teach private lessons and small group classes. Finding a school where you can apprentice means you will most probably spend many months watching as many classes as possible before you actually assist the instructor. From there, our apprentices may move on to teaching one exercise in a class, and then co-teaching with an experienced trainer. This sets a supportive foundation for gradual progression towards the ultimate goal of teaching classes on their own. Apprentices may also shadow a trainer on private lessons and progress in the same manner.

Continuing Education: I am lucky to be friends with some of the most experienced and talented trainers around. Even they continue their education by learning from each dog and client they encounter, attending seminars and workshops and reading voraciously. So, plan on devoting time, energy and money to your ongoign education for years to come.

When I first started out as a dog trainer it was far from fashionable to have a career with animals. My response to the question “What do you do?” almost always resulted in something along the lines of an uncomfortable pause and then “Oh, a dog walker. That must be a good way to stay fit.” Now, when people find out what I do, a more typical response is “Wow! That sounds like such a great job. I would love to do what you do!” The path to becoming a dog trainer can be a long one (I started almost 17 years ago), but I think Martin is right to sometimes take the slower, potentially more scenic route. I know for me it has brought me to a wonderful destination. My friend was right; If it takes a bit longer than expected to get where you want to go, just remember that as long as you end up where you want, it will be worth the trip.

But, there is also a grouping of pure bred dogs that are categorized by kennel clubs as working dogs due to the fact that they were developed to have the physical and mental ability to help people in a myriad of tasks, including: guarding, pulling carts or sleds, performing water or land rescues, and assisting the police and military. In addition to being wonderful companions, these types of dogs have been invaluable assistants to people all across the world for many years.

While most of these dogs no longer perform the specific tasks for which their breed was developed, they still have the considerable abilities to do so. The development of working dogs involved selecting hardy, highly intelligent dogs with wonderful temperaments. As such, these dogs do best when given plenty of opportunties to show their stuff in appropriate ways. A typical working dog breed may no longer need to pull a cart, or rescue someone from the snowy alps, but they will proudly show their stuff in a training class, obedience, agility or flyball ring. And many of these dogs have what it takes to become therapy dogs, a most rewarding experience for the dog, their family and the people they visit.

Some working breeds are: Akita, Alaskan Malamute, Anatolian Shepherd Dog, Bernese Mountain Dog, Black Russian Terrier, Boxer, Bullmastiff, Doberman Pinscher, Dogue de Bordeaux, German Pinscher, Giant Schnauzer, Great Dane, Great Pyrenees, Greater Swiss Mountain Dog, Komondor, Kuvasz, Mastiff, Neopolitan Mastiff, Newfoundland, Portugese Water Dog, Rottweiller, Saint Bernard, Samoyed, Siberian Husky, Standard Schnauzer, and Tibetan Mastiff.

Most working breeds are a joy to teach and thrive with people who enjoy the process of finding the right motivation to get their dog to do what they want them to. Of course, all dogs need plenty of early and ongoing socialization. However, due to the typical size and presence of a working dog, this is an even more pressing priority for them. Having been developed to work closely with their human families, working dogs tend to bond easily and intensely with them. They should also be accepting and friendly with visitors and people they meet on the street, at the veterinarian, and the groomer. When raised and treated with love and respect, working dogs can provide as much love and companionship in return as any family could hope for.

If you are interested in welcoming one of these types of dogs into your family, be sure to meet as many adult dogs of the breed or type you are interested in as possible so you can get a better sense of the general activity level, grooming, and health needs. Also, contact that breed’s breed specific rescue organization and your local shelters. Adopting a canine companion in need is a wonderful option.

Teaching your dog to wait at doorways until given an “OK” is not only a wise way to help ensure your dog’s safety (i.e. to prevent charging out the doorway), but also to set a positive, calm tone for walks, to help cement overall impulse and self control, and last, but certainly not least, to make your life calmer and easier.

Dogs are very specific learners. That is, they are superb at learning things in specific environments and contexts. However, it takes loads of repetitions in many environments and with many distractions for a dog to be able to generalize a behavior and be mannerly in general. For example, a dog may learn to do a prompt and reliable sit in the living room, but may not so easily outside on the street around loads of distractions. So, each opportunity we give our dogs to practice a behavior makes it easier for them to generalize. In this case, each time your dog stops and waits at a doorway (a place that for most dogs is a very exciting place to be, as it is where they exit for fun walks and where exciting visitors enter) you are helping them to gain better self control which will ultimately be generalized to more and more situations. If your dog can control itself in what is presumably an excitable state at doorways then he or she is better equipped to control itself in general.

In addition to impulse and self control, teaching your dog to wait at doorways until given permission to walk through is a wonderful way to cement your dog’s understanding of the give and take of the canine/human bond. You are essentially making it clear to your dog that you have the ability to give them access to something they want (i.e. going through the door) if they give you something you want (i.e. standing or sitting still and waiting for your cue to go forward). It can not be overstated how important it is to find as many small opportunities throughout the day to help your dog understand this concept. It really is the foundation of a safe, healthy and happy canine/human relationship.

Great doggie doorway manners start with your dog on leash beside you. The leash is not meant to be used to punish your dog, rather as a safety tool (to prevent potential pushing out the door) and to manage your dog to help set them up for success. As you walk towards the door with treats in your hand or in a treat pouch on your hip, get ready to mark the moment your dog stops at the door. A marker is a sound which signifies to your dog that what they did at the exact moment they heard the sound is what will get them a reward. By saying “yes” or using a clicker and pairing it 10-20 times with a treat (i.e. make the sound when the dog does something you like and then give the treat) your dog will start to understand the significance of this sound.

You may need to wait a moment or two for your dog to be still, so be patient and calm. Once your dog has stopped at the door you can choose to wait for an automatic sit at the door as well. Marking and rewarding this behavior too. Now is the time to begin the all important process of loads of repetitions to build your dog’s learning muscle for this behavior of waiting at the door. Walk away from the door and circle back to try again. With each repetition your dog is likely to more promptly and enthusiastically offer you the behavior you have previously reinforced (i.e. a stand or sit and wait).

During 3-5 minute sessions each dog/owner team will progress at a different rate. Be sure to focus on rewarding even tiny steps of improvement and consider that for many dogs, remaining calm and still at doorways is a lot to ask. Especially is they have been permitted to rush at and through doorways in the past. When you are able to put your hand ont he door knob and your dog remains still, you can try turning the knob and then opening the door a bit. Odds are this will stimulate your dog to get up, in which case simply close the door, wait a moment for your dog to be still (either standing or sitting, whichever you have chosen as your standard) and try again. Gradually work towards fully opening the door and when you are ready to go forward let your super polite dog know they can proceed by saying the release word (mine is “OK!).

Lots of brief periods of repetition throughout the day will not only result in doorway etiquette success, but also offer you an opportunity to spend quality time with your dog. Something you both deserve.