We have all heard the term ‘The Honeymoon Period’ used to describe the first, deliriously happy months of a relationship. Everyone is on their best behavior and feeling giddy and optimistic about the future. Unfortunately, this time of what seems to be limitless joy usually comes to an end. A similar, albeit usually much shorter, honeymoon period is often experienced by new pet parents. Although, unlike people in a new relationship, I don’t think the dog or puppy is on it’s best behavior with the understanding that they are about to start a new, hopefully long term relationship. Instead, many dogs are in a state of severe adjustment to what is a whole new world. A new environment, sights, sounds, people and possibly other animals can result in a dog sort of shutting down a bit (or a lot!) as they absorb all of this new information and try to.

Teaching a dog to walk nicely on leash is, in theory anyway, a fairly easy task. It comes down to teaching the dog to enjoy following you and to consider it more rewarding than other endeavors, such as pulling ahead or lagging behind. The hard part of teaching your dog to walk nicely on leash comes down to the fact that this potentially enjoyable endeavor happens outdoors where your dog is exposed to an almost endless list of distractions. Furthermore, most dogs see their daily walks as some of the most thrilling moments of the day. So, distractions added with a high level of stimulation equals a dog who is probably not in the ideal canine student mindset. Setting aside the fact that as many brief (3-5 minute) training sessions indoors throughout the week as possible will bode well for your dog and you becoming pleasant walking partners for many.

I named the voice in my car’s GPS system Martin. I thought it was a suitably proper, British name for a voice that sounds remarkably real for being computer generated. At times, Martin provides me with a bit of amusement, such as when he says “At the roundabout, take the first right hand turning,” or “If possible, make a u-turn.” Oh Martin, you are so polite. If I was the voice in my car I might be tempted to say “You missed the turn! Turn around, go back and follow my instructions.” Luckily, I have far more skill and patience when teaching dogs and their people than when trying to navigate somewhere in my car. Martin and I have had a generally good relationship. Although, not so much when I am lost and feel he isn’t doing his part to get me on the right track. In the last year.

Today I made a quick trip across the street to get a delicious cafe con leche from Despana, the lovely little shop with delicacies from Spain. As I went up the two steps to enter a gentleman was on his way out with his hands full, a tray of coffees in one hand and a bag in the other. I pushed the door in and prepared to step aside and hold it open for him to pass. But, before I knew it he had placed his purchases on the table next to the door and was holding the door for me! My surprised words of thanks were followed by a gracious response in Spanish from the man. I had come across a true gentleman from Spain! This simple gesture of doorway etiquette has carried me through the day with a little smile on my face. Clearly, such a small act.

I usually begin classes and private lessons with an introduction to the many benefits of taking a positive, dog friendly approach to teaching. I am always pleased to see nods of approval from students as I explain how punishments more often than not result in a dog engaging in owner absent behavior problems (i.e. I’ll wait until my family of big, bad punishers is gone to engage in chewing everything I can find and eliminating behind the couch, where it hopefully won’t be found). While explaining how a punitive approach can also seriously damage the canine/human bond, I see plenty of people look lovingly at their dogs and imagine they are thinking that is the last thing they would want to have happen. At moments like this I am confident that people understand their role as their dog’s guide. That they will move forward with a plan for management and.

Marta from Long Island sent me an email today asking how to stop her five year old West Highland White Terrier from sabotaging her social life by barking up a storm whenever she holds a phone to her ear. Connor had been crowned with the title of Sir Barksalot by the time he was a year old and since that time Marta had reluctantly focused on texts to make contact with people. I explained that it was likely that when Connor was a puppy he barked at her for attention while she was occupied on the phone and Marta had inadvertantly reinforced this behavior by giving him attention as a result. Her attention may very well have been in the form of pleadings to shush, but for most dogs, attention is attention, regardless of whether we deem it as negative or positive. I suggested she keep Connor on leash when.

In order that your dog associate his crate with comfort and security, it is important that his initial experiences be pleasant. Rather than simply putting your dog in his kennel and expecting him to “get used to it,” spend some time helping him to gradually become accustomed to it and you will be rewarded with a dog that not only tolerates but also enjoys time in his crate. Begin by allowing your dog to explore the kennel on his own. Leave the kennel with the door open and place some food in it to encourage your dog to investigate. If your dog seems very hesitant to enter the crate, even when treats are in it, place his food bowl just in front of the kennel, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back so that he can become gradually acclimated to the experience of stepping in and.

The usefulness of a crate to help your dog learn to be mannerly (and eventually enjoy as much freedom as is safe and reasonable) knows no bounds. Once you have chosen the appropriate crate, be sure to consider these crate safety tips before introducing your dog to his new crate. 1. Duration: The crate is meant only for short periods of confinement. Do not confine your dog to his crate for longer than he can reasonably hold his bladder and bowel. Your dog should be given plenty of potty and play breaks throughout the day, whether by you or a trusted caregiver. 2. Placement: Make sure the crate is kept in an area where your dog is protected from the elements and extremes in temperature. This is especially true for the short-coated breeds (Shih Tzus, Pugs, Bulldogs, etc.) and the thick-coated breeds (Huskies, Newfoundlands, St. Bernards, etc.). An area of.

When preparing the crate for a new puppy or dog, most people’s first inclination is to outfit it with a comfy dog bed, towel, or blanket. It is generally best to hold off on this thoughtful gesture until you are confident your puppy or dog will not chew on (and ingest pieces of) the bedding, or eliminate on this soft, absorbent surface and then push it to the side. For the first few weeks, allow your pup to rest on the floor of the crate unfurnished. If you are considered about their comfort, consider that this is temporary and that many dogs choose to lie on wood and tile floors all on their own anyway. At this point, you can provide your pup with a soft bed while he lies next to you and naps. This way you can supervise your pup and redirect his attention if he tries to.

The essence of housetraining is being a good doggie time manager. That means making sure your dog is in the right place (outside or inside on paper) at the right time (when your dog needs to eliminate) In order to get your dog to the right place at the right time you need to know when he needs to eliminate. A crate is one of the most efficient and effective aids to housetraining because it helps you to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate. Most dogs don’t like to soil their resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. So, temporarily confining your dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate. If your dog does not eliminate while in the kennel, then he is building bladder and bowel control and will need to eliminate when he is released. In this case.